Serge Gainsbourg. French singer poet rebel cad. A gifted writer who grew to legend thriving off scandal and imbibing in excess. Inebriated in every public appearance he made, he slurred his syllables and sloshed in his seat like a drink overfilled until he rose to the top like ice-cube flotsam in the bottomless Pernod he never let go.
Admired by most, revered by some and despised by more than a few, France needed him to push their boundaries while they sat safely behind the lines of their TV screens. They needed him to go too far so they wouldn’t have to.
Which is why the Serge Gainsbourg Garden, planted on top of Paris’ périphérique (beltway or ring road) at the Porte des Lilas, is such a sad tribute. Tragically, none of those things Gainsbourg represented (talent, delirium, beauty, squalor, courage, danger, desire) are to be found in this sterile wasteland.
This is what I mean:
Rats! You can't swim in the water!
Rats! You can't drink the water!
Planted on top of the beltway
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Further Reading
From "The Party's Crashing Us" Blog (click the photo to access)
Paris Inspired 
“They needed him to go too far so they wouldn’t have to.”
Great line, and true of the dynamic between Gainsbourg and the French, huh.
I like how you point out the irony of the contrast between the park and Gainsbourg as a performer and cultural icon — yes, lots of contrast there. As a tribute park, it is not much. Weird location, too, for such a park.
One thing I did like was that at least they tried… The 19th is in need of constant urban renewal, IMHO, especially the eastern and northern parts. So it is an “A” for effort, but a “C-” in execution. Like I told you, reminds me of every sad little xeriscaped “park” in suburban Colorado. Maybe in a few years when the trees are grown and the plants a little more filled-in, this garden will amount to something. In the meantime, “sad” is exactly what this place is. I’m glad we checked it out, though!
Thanks for stopping by, Angel!
I’ve been thinking about the location of the garden and one of the conclusions I’ve reached was that maybe the City chose Porte Des Lilas because of the Serge Gainsbourg song “Le Poinçonneur des Lilas” (The Ticket Puncher At Lilas Station). Here it is, with English translation:
Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment, it’s much appreciated!
Paris Paul
“…maybe the City chose Porte Des Lilas because of the Serge Gainsbourg song “Le Poinçonneur des Lilas…”
Ahhhh, could be. Would make sense with that song. I am sure it also had to do with space available for a tribute park to him, too.
Cute song — and man, is that him when he was young in the video? How youthful he was! (Weren’t we all at one time…)
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well, from appearances, the park is in the “projects” and at the “edge” of town (why are places like that left to wonder why the can’t have anything truly beautiful?) I am amused by the no swimming sign, but I guess wading is considered a form of swimming (how hot would you have to be to want to cool off in that miniature duck pond anyway?), but it is kept very clean for the area it is in (or you are a clever photographer to avoid the litter/graffiti).
LOL, I had not seen the Whitney Houston stunt. Genius!
Reading Karin’s statements, I would also say that while the arrangement and sculptures in the park is somewhat abstract, they do not reflect the shock/controversy that was Serge’s trademark unless it was the juxtaposition in its location and against that backdrop.
In the end, I would have avoided the Frank Lloyd Wright aproach and sought out the French equivilency of Jeff Koons.
Glad you got a kick out of the Whitney Houston video, Ken!
“In the end, I would have avoided the Frank Lloyd Wright aproach and sought out the French equivilency of Jeff Koons.” Very astute, that. Have you ever thought of becoming a city planner?
See you in the Streets!
Paris Paul
Interesting post and photos – the place does look a bit sad and sterile though I agree with Karin point about ‘A for effort’.
I didn’t know this park existed — my partner Clive and I have visited Gainsbourg’s gravesite at Montparnasse Cemetery (we both like his and Jane Birkin’s ‘Je t’aime’). He seems to have a similar following to Jim Morrison at P. Lachaise, at least as evidenced by the amount of different stuff — photos, metro tickets, flowers, notes — left at his grave.
Thanks for sharing a part of Paris I don’t think we would have seen otherwise!
Cheers.
I agree that Gainsbourg’s grave is carries more meaning and significance than the park we went to.That’s Karin and me for you, doing the crappy things so you don’t have to!
I thoroughly enjoyed your blog about the Cememtery and I’ll be back to leave a comment later today. Beautiful photos!
See you in the streets,
Paul
P.S. I posted a photo of Gainsbourg’s grave in my post at ‘In Bed at Montparnasse Cemetery’ – linked here FWIW
http://mysydneyparislife.wordpress.com/2010/04/16/in-bed-at-montparnasse-cemetery/
Cheers.
oh my! Had no idea about this park. What desolation!
Just found your blog – really enjoying the photo-tours 🙂
Thanks for stopping by! Glad you’re enjoying the photos and hope to see you again soon!
Merci d’avoir passer! Je suis content que les photos vous plaisent, et j’espère de vous revoir bientôt!
See you in the streets,
A+,
Paris Paul
PS Very cool Web site, I’ll be stopping by often.
PS Votre site est chouette! J’y vais repasser.
Paris Paul